Well, I have been back in the UK for nearly a week, and Mark and Jackie are settled back in Canada after weeks and weeks of globe trotting. The dust has finally settled, I think.

Thank you Jackie for your wrap up. It’s been great to have your perspective on these pages. I know Sue has enjoyed reading the girls point of view.

There are just a few more tales for me to tell and thank yous to say, but before that, I shall recount my last two days in Fez……….

Martin, the photographer on the trip and I were the final two riders to leave Morocco. We had a couple of days to ourselves after everyone else had set off for home  (Fez airport doesn’t have many flights to the UK…. or anywhere in fact). Our flight was on Sunday night.

We were, thanks to Mark and Jackie’s research, settled into a nice villa on a well appointed family holiday park a couple of miles out of Fez. My main intention for these last couple of days was to explore as much as possible. We got up on Saturday morning and went to find a Taxi to take us in to Fez.  That proved rather difficult. The chap at the reception desk spoke English about as well as I speak Arabic but we finally got to the point in the mostly gestured conversation were I understood that he could not get a taxi to come this far out of town and we would have to walk to the nearest suburb centre to get a cab or bus. (Having seen the state of the local busses, Martin and I opted to find a cab). We had no idea how far it was, but we set off in the baking sun. After about 10 minutes, a local chap driving/riding a tuk tuk pulled up along side us and offered a lift. We hopped on the unwieldy contraption and (hopefully) set off in the direction of a taxi stand. Within a few minutes we were at a busy intersection with plenty of the red Fiat Uno taxi’s buzzing around. I gave the friendly local all the 25 or so coins in my pocket, which embarrasingly amounted to about 8p I think, but he seemed happy enough to have helped us out. I really like the Moroccan people I have met – very genuine and kind folk.

After a quick coffee at a streetside coffee shop we flagged down a cab and set off for the Souk in Fez’s old town, Medina. Entrance to Medina is via a number of majestic gates that surround the ancient cultural centre. The cabbie dropped us off at the north gate – the 15 minute taxi ride costing 14 MAD (Moroccan Dirham), about £1.

Fez has an impressive history full of culture, artisans and important contributions from the ancient University of Al-Karueein, one of the leading spiritual and educational centers of the Muslim world and one of the oldest Universities in the world, established in 859 ad.  All this culture, craftsmanship and spirituality is centred in the Souk in Medina.

The atmosphere of the Souk had totally hooked me when we visited with our guide before the ride and I was excited to get back there and explore it properly without a local guide. I had a few little gifts still to buy and this was the best place to do it. The tiny little shops, in fact booths would better describe them contained all manner of objects, food, services and craftsmen making or weaving beautiful things, and everything you buy has to be bartered for. You can tell the Moroccans enjoy this and it is an important part of the selling process to them – its fun too when you get the hang of it. Generally, with a good natured round of bartering, you can get what you are after for about a half to a third of the original asking price.

Martin and I spent a few hours wandering around and I thoroughly soaked up all the  sights, sounds and smells. At one point we wondered off the main ‘street’ down a very narrow side alley, having to squeeze past the numerous donkeys (no cars allowed – all deliveries are by donkey and mule). The street got narrower and narrower to the point where I could touch the buildings either side of me without having to stretch. There was a local old lady in front who occasionally glanced over her shoulder at us and appeared to be getting a little concerned that we were following her. Eventually she said something in Arabic. Martin and I smiled uncomprehendingly. A second later we realised the situation. We were at a dead end with only one door left. Her house!! We very nearly followed her through the door before realising our mistake (the dwellings, workshops and ‘showrooms’ are impossible to distinguish between from the outside). The lady laughed as we embarrassingly backed out of her doorway, apologising.

After grabbing lunch at a busy little restaurant where we ate beautiful flame grilled chicken and beef kebabs, we took a mosy back into the dark and busy shopping alleys and bought a few more bits and bobs. Martin stopped at a little spice and herb shop where the proud owner showed us his photo and feature in the Lonely Planet guide to Fez. The colours of the spices were enchanting and the smells intoxicating. We both bought some cooking spices. (I cooked chicken using mine last night, mixed with a little white wine,  olive oil, onion and garlic. It was delicious).

At the end of the day we made our way back to our villa at ‘Diamant Vert’, again encountering problems getting a cab to take us. In the end we found a driver who was willing to turn off his meter and take us home for a pre agreed 70 MAD (£5). I thought he was ‘taking us for a ride’ so to speak until I found out later that the drivers can get a big fine for going beyond their designated areas – so he was doing us a favour really.

Tired but happy to have explored Fez a little more, Martin and I opened a bottle of red wine and settled down to watch Top Gun for the 7th time in 2 days – it appeared to be stuck on a loop on the only English speaking TV channel.

The next day (our day to return home), we awoke to gale force winds and torrential rain! Not knowing what time we were going to be turfed out of our villa (our flight was at 7.30pm), we had planned to grab a sun lounger each and laze around catching rays for the day – that plan was out of the window.  Our only alternative was to lock the door of the villa and settle down to an other few hours of Goose and Maverick fighting bogie’s…..again. And again. We were only occasionally interrupted by the room maids who were becoming more and more impatient to get in and tidy up. We made it to 3pm before the phone call came and the polite receptionist asked if we wanted to pay for an other night. At least it had stopped raining by then. We checked out and one of the staff from the holiday park gave us a lift to the airport.

We did what you do at an airport – drank coffee, stood around in a que for an hour or so – all the usual nonsense. While waiting to check our bags in, a friendly Australian man chatted to us and we told him about the ride. He was interested in what we had been up to and it transpired that he was an author, broadcaster and journalist. Sandy Mccutchion. He owns a little house (a Riad) in the Souk and spends months at a time writing novels there. He was a fascinating chap. He told us about a huge web site he helped create and run www.theviewfromfez.com now Fez’s most popular tourist information and blog site. He asked if we would write our story of the ride for the site so I am going to send this Blog to him. Hopefully it will be published on the site (I’ll spell check it all first Dad!!!! (o:)

Meeting Sandy was a perfect end to my time in Morocco. He suggested I try reading his novel ‘The Cobblers Apprentice’, a political thriller set partly in the Souk in Fez, which I’m looking forward to getting my teeth into. I’d met some great people here and Sandy was the icing on the cake. I was heading home a happy and enlightened chap. Wonderful.

Then the sting in the tail……..

As Martin and I stood to join the boarding queue just minutes before getting on the plane, I coughed…….and felt one of my ribs break. The pain was like nothing I have ever felt. The airport terminal span and I managed to collapse onto a nearby seat. Poor Martin could tell things were not good. He went and grabbed me a bottle of water. I must have looked bad – a little crowed gathered round me and concerned people offered advice and good wishes. Martin took care of my hand luggage as I dragged myself onto the plane and the cabin crew sat me down at the back so they could keep and eye on me. It wasn’t the nicest flight I have ever had but the pain did subside a bit after an hour or so. I just wanted to get home, see Sue and go to hospital! As it turned out, by the time I eventually got home to Rugby it was 2am and I was so shattered I went straight to bed. I took myself to Casualty the next day and they confirmed a broken rib, possibly two – tell me something I didn’t know!!

I guess I had only fractured the rib when I had my big crash in the dunes and my body armour had done a good job of keeping everything ‘in place’ while I finished the ride. The cough had finally broken it. What a crazy thing – but at least I had made it to almost the end!! At the moment, a week later, it is still sore but getting better so no real damage done (o:

While we are going through the injured list………

Mark got himself checked out when they got back to Canada. He had fractured his collar bone, in two places (How did they not see that on the X-Ray in Morocco?), and had also fractured a rib too. He is getting good treatment from his physio team and will be back to top fitness in the quickest time – I know Mark!

Wil, who had tangled with the Tuk Tuk on the last ride through Fez got back to the UK safe and sound. Nothing broken but he had aggravated a couple of old breaks so the doctors plastered him up….which he removed about 24 hours later. Thats Wil!!

I’m glad to report nothing more serious than a few broken bones. We will all be back to full strength in time for the next ride.

And Finally………

This has been a fantastic trip. Very different to Enduro Africa and more rewarding in many ways. It was great to have Mark and Jackie sharing the adventure. Jackie really did tackle some daunting stuff in the Land-Rover and impressed everyone with her tenacious driving and navigating skills. Way to go Jackie. You impressed the heck out of me and everyone else on the ride.

Thank you also for your contributions to this blog and the wonderful photographs you both took, and as for the video………….great job Mark. Its a brilliant and very amusing video. What a great memory for everyone to have.

Morocco 2010 video

Mark was riding so well and his bike abilities have rocketed since we rode together in South Africa. He really is a hero and commits himself totally to everything he does. His fitness is amazing too, he could really push through very tough stages at a fast pace and always looked fresh and ready to go again when I finally caught up with him. I was really shocked when he had his bad fall. I’m not used to seeing my big brother defeated by any circumstances and it took the wind out of my sails a little. I did miss him terribly for the second half of the ride, but it was good to know Jackie was looking after him in the ambulance…..sorry, Land-Rover.

Mark and Jackie are tireless with their drive and ambition to help people much less fortunate than ourselves. Their partnership with ‘Just a Drop’ is already benefiting children and families and giving them access to the most basic and necessary human requirement. Water. Two weeks before this trip they had been in Nairobi, Kenya assisting ‘Just a Drop’ with a well project.

Like air, we take clean water for granted, and we are lucky. During Enduro Africa I had first hand contact with people who have no clean water to drink. I saw children drinking stagnant and polluted water from rivers and streams because they had no alternative. I urge you to follow Mark and Jackie’s progress in bringing clean water to people who have none, and if you can help them in any way, please, please do. www.rally4life.org

Mick and Steph and the team……

Massive thanks to you guys. It is such a huge privilege for me to ride with Mick Extance and to be able to tap ever so slightly into his unbelievable motorcycle skills. I have been a fan of the Dakar rally for many years, following it closely since the early 90’s and I had followed Mick’s progress through many races. Mick is a super nice guy and has endless patience and encouragement for riders on the learning curve. It was amazing to see Mick ‘come home’ to the dunes in Morocco and watch him in his element. His skill on the terrain there is stupefying and it was a chance in a lifetime to experience it first hand – even when he crashed into me!!!!! He he, its all on my helmet cam Mick!!!!

Steph, the Boss! This was the first time Steph and Mick had staged this event and it went like absolute clockwork. I know how much hard work and effort Steph put into this trip for the months leading up to it – it paid off 100% Steph! As well as being a tireless organiser and great team motivator, Steph is also a bloody good off road rider and a ton of fun to be with. Thanks for providing such a cool trip for us Steph. Can I come next year?

Wil and Steve: An off road school is only as good as its sweepers – and this is the best off road school in the world. Wil and Steve are both ridiculously good riders with the best personalities. I have been picked up and dusted off by both on more than a few occasions. I’ve been lucky enough to ride with these two guys plenty of times in the UK, and in SA with Steve, and you are guaranteed to be smiling all the way in their company. What I hadn’t experienced before was their mechanical skills and abilities. Although I am a much more confident home mechanic than I used to be with my bikes, I still don’t have the experience or confidence to go into the engine. I was blown away watching Wil and Steve performing regular open heart surgery on the bikes, with the most basic of tools…..in the desert. Maximun respect, and then some. Thanks for your tremendous company guys – it wouldnt have been half the fun without you.

Richie – the Cook. Anyone who can provide hot food (and bloody good it was too) for 10 people, during a desert sand storm, at night…….in Algeria, is right at the top of my ‘good people to know’ list. What a guy, and as if that wasn’t enough, Richie is also an amazing rider, mechanic and navigator. I spent a lot of time riding closely with Richie and it improved my riding no end. One of the worlds good guys without a doubt. It was a pleasure to share this experience with you Rich.

Martin – Photographer. I love this guy. A wise old head on young shoulders. At 23, Martin is an unbelievably talented photographer, awesome off road rider and has a heart of gold. We had a great time during the ride and in our last few days after everyone else had left for home – it finished the adventure off perfectly. Martin, I’m forever grateful for your help at the airport mate (and when I binned it big time in the dunes). Don’t know how I would have managed that flight without you. Thanks dude.

Chris – The new boy. I was shocked to find out Chris had only been riding for 9 months. This was a pretty daunting ride for anyone at novice level. Chris took the challenge on fantastically and impressed everyone with his bravery and determination. He had a pretty big spill on the road on the first day and it took guts to get back in the saddle after that, but Chris did it & finished the ride. Way to go Chris. See you on the next one!!

C’est Fini

So, that’s it, for a while at least. Mark has the Dakar and ‘Just a Drop’ to concentrate on. My supreemely patient wife and kids need and deserve a holiday in the sun next year so it looks like my adventures will be home grown for a while now. I will have plenty of opportunities to ride with Mick and Steph and the guys in North Wales on free weekends, and Tommy will be joining me as often as he can. Maybe on the next crazy trip he will be riding alongside me and Mark. I hope so.

Thank you for reading our Blog. Its been fun to write, and I hope fun to read. And thank you for all your comments and good wishes.

Morocco is a vibrant and exciting country which connected with me at some basic level. I will go back one day. I hope our story may inspire some of you to visit there – or to go and have an adventure somewhere….anywhere. Its great to break away from the norm every once in a while (o:

Oh, one last thing. It turns out we were never in Algeria. Drizz, our Nomad host told us that the GPS devices always get a bit confused round there. He assured us that we would have known about it if we had crossed the boarder. He was very glad we hadn’t!!

Pete.