Mark – Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Remote & Technical

Firstly and most importantly! The Soze Group Bamboo socks are still working after four hard days sweaty riding. I must admit there is a hint of a smell, but I refuse to wash them. My normal socks would honestly not get through a days activity like this, let alone four.!

Today was a slog, and “technical” has taken on a different meaning for me. We left the beautiful Morgan Bay Hotel and crossed an estuary on a rusty African ferry.

We received dutiful warnings from Dave, our guide that the “rutweilers” will be getting people into accidents today (deep, bottomless, vertical sided African ruts!). With more confidence than we probably should have and carrying a little too much speed perhaps on the first section or two, there were more than a couple of stories of feet being knocked off the footpegs or squashed between the bike and the deep walls of a rut!

After a few fast and narrow trails, we entered the first test, a simple creek crossing. One at a time we entered the creek and rode across. The first one or two went smoothly, then came the real challenges. As the day progressed, the entrances to the gullies become steeper and the exits equally as steep and rocky. At one point we were faced with a vertical drop down into a muddy bottom creek and a vertical climb out of about 3-4 feet into deep muddy ruts. wide enough only to get the bike in (do with your legs whatever you want, but you could not stand on the bike!) and then some technical rock.

Thankfully, and as always on the trip, team orange rose to the occasion and the front runners parked their bikes and came back down the test to help others through. So far, no casualties and no broken bikes. All was going well. We took a short break for a snack, the day was hot and water consumption was encouraged constantly and wisely by the guides.

We left the lunch stop down a narrow windy and fast sandy trail for a “boogaloo” as Dave our guide referred to it.  I am glad I was able to tuck in behind him and stay relatively close on his tail. I learnt so much about lines and riding style, it was very cool. It was noticeable that early in the afternoon a few team members were starting to fall behind on energy levels. However, we all had no option but to push on and find reserves that many of us never knew we had. Gradually, the river crossings became harder, deeper and steeper until our nemesis, “The Gorge”. A 1,000’ very steep technical descent on loose rubble gave a few folks a challenge and we arrived down at river level to face a shallow crossing and a climb back up 1,000’.

Everyone was ecstatic that we had come through the day, but while only several kilometres away from our ultimate destination, we had no clue that there were yet, 3 separate river/gulley crossings. With some people running out of water and others struggling to find energy. the several riders continued to assist in helping bikes get up the hill (and riders). The only challenge being that a pillion ride was occasionally needed down the hill to retrieve a stranded bike or rider!

As a group of riders stood on top of the last hill, they started playing soccer with a group of local children while in the back ground we were treated to a South African fireworks display (an Indian Ocean lightning storm). Fun for us, but not so much fun at dusk when we saw two full teams come across the valley in our direction knowing that the heavens were about to open!

Sure enough they did and as if riding up a steep technical gully in the dark with lights pointing nowhere, rain added to the affect of a real adventure. Back at the hotel, finally, each rider recounted tales of daring do and settled into an evening of camaraderie, relaxing and thoroughly looking forward to a well earned rest day tomorrow. Good night!

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Pete – Wednesday, October 8, 2008

Service and rest

Today’s rest and service was really needed for the riders and the bikes. We took our bikes into service this morning in teams and everyone mucked in and got things running like clockwork. We had 45 mins to remove and clean the air filters, wash the bikes and oil the chains and do an engine oil change……..on 17 bikes! Plus lots of other brake, clutch, wheel adjustments and one bent sub-frame.

The mechanics and crew here are great, no nonsense guys who get the job done quickly. It was good to have everyone involved. These motorcycles have proved themselves to be incredibly good machines for this ride and we have all become attached to our own bikes. It was kind of nice to give them a little bit of attention.

Immediately after service we headed out to the local school where Mike Glover (the head honcho on the African side of EA) helps out with money and support from his Touch Africa charity. We were welcomed at the school by cheering and smiling children who then stood on a little hill beside the school and sang for us. It was incredibly emotional. They sang beautifully and were very proud of their humble school. It is so difficult to describe the situation these families are in. There is no electricity or running water here. The school is no more than 3 thatched huts with classrooms smaller than your bedroom and there are over 70 children there. So far, Enduro Africa and Mike Glover have helped out by giving the school tables and chairs. This year we took a blackboard in for every classroom and installed solar panels so the children can at least have some lights on in the dark classrooms. Mikes charity has also given the school a little playground with swings and a roundabout etc. The roundabout is attached to a generator which powers a water pump so the children can wash their hands and have a toilet that flushes. Its simple and effective. This work needs to be done. I went into the classrooms and looked at the kids work – they are trying to learn the same things my children study, in a hut on a mountain with no electricity or water. About a quarter of the kids did not have shoes. They did have smiles though and were obviously very happy to be learning. They were lovely happy kids and had fun trying on our crash helmets and sitting on the bikes. It got very emotional and there were plenty of us big biker types with tears in our eyes.

While we were there the school football team went out to the pitch and started warming up, just as my sons team do, stretching and jogging round the pitch before the match. How can this be so close to our children’s lives and yet a million miles away at the same time? I’m glad & proud to have helped improve their lives a little. If any of my sponsors are reading this – thank you once again. Your money IS making a difference out here.

As I finish writing this it is an hour to our evening meal. I drank far too much Rum with team mates and a few of the South African guides last night so tonight its food, a soft drink and early to bed. 170km of technical and demanding (again) riding tomorrow. Bring it on!

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Mark – Thursday, October 9, 2008

Broken toe, cliff hauling and saddle sores

In this kind of scenery, everything else seems trivial despite the title for todays blog!

Thank heavens for the rest day, ‘cos we needed it. An early start was the hint to the fact that today we would not only cover a considerable distance, but we would have many technical difficulties thrown in. The first of these was a river that was thigh deep and slimy! Not something to ride through but something to work as a team and help each other across. Seemed easy at the time, but more of the same including smaller creek crossings with really steep banks became the order of the day. By lunch time, some were struggling with energy although surprisingly, I was feeling very strong today which was a blessing because the afternoon became long and arduous.

We arrived after lunch at the most fantastic region of the Transkei… the remote and rugged northern coast line before the infamous Hole In The Wall. During the lunch the group split up a little with the main group committing to a very serious run on the coast over some very large hills and the smaller group deciding to take a short cut back to the Hole In The Wall resort and save some energy.

Pete and I chose the “Long Way Round!” and I am sure glad we did but it was not without it’s challenges. Apparently the GPS programming had some challenges this morning with a route in the guides GPS units that we were not supposed to be on. It was fantastic, but following Dave the leader was a real stretch for me. On more than one occasion he chose a really challenging line that I attempted to get up and after seeing the struggle that I had, the group was diverted around the challenge. Tons of fun but lots of energy lugging the bikes up narrow and what seemed like near vertical gullies! Great fun.

After a short while we were standing on top of a beautiful round hill that had steep sides down to the beach and embarked on the steepest descent the group had done yet (right on the heels of the steepest traverse we had done which claimed one victim in the group!). Once on the beach, we proceed to watch the Green Team man handle their final 7-8 bikes up a cliff!!!!!

Seemed like a plan, certainly the Orange Team was up for the challenge, however after getting the first bike up, we received rather frantic word that this was the wrong route and turn around! Our hopes were dashed, however it was getting late in the day to attempt the rest of that route.

We returned back up the very steep slopes of the round hill whilst organisers prepared a different route and the teams gathered together for what turned out to be an interesting run back to tonight’s hotel.

Several steep rocky gullies and a few river crossings got us to a point where we were not sure where the final route home was.

Helped by the locals we eventually charted a course down a steep slope littered with knee high boulders and it was dusk! A daunting task in broad daylight, this field of “bollards” became quite difficult for many and eventually we made it across a field to a final river crossing. This river was deep, full of large rocks and very greasy. Orange team to the rescue again! With help we managed to get almost everyone’s bike across with the exception of one, a bike which had thrown it’s chain and stuffed it all in to the chain gear cover! This could be a problem, because now it was dark! Still 2 km’s from the hotel, we were dispatched by the guides who fixed the problem and showed up later.

Somewhere along the way today, Pete broke his toe after his bike dropped “handle bars first” straight on to it… very painful! I have a nasty case of saddle sores developing, but I should be able to nurse my weary bum back to Durban where it will not see a bike saddle for  while!

Overall, it was a long hard day, we had to dig deep for energy and focus, but the food back at the resort had never tasted so good and the stories are getting better. Trouble is, most people can’t stand long enough to tell you the story because of their bruised and battered bodies! Great fun.

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Pete – Friday, October 10, 2008

The last of the Transkei

We left Hole in the Wall bright and early this morning and drove straight to a fuel stop. On the way we parked up on top of one of the spectacular coastline cliffs and watched dolphins surfing the waves of the Indian ocean. What an amazing sight.

Pretty quickly we were back into the technical stages, crossing rivers and muddy valley bottoms, hill climbing up passes you wouldn’t dream of riding in a million years and  descending rocky trails like we had been doing it all our lives. Team orange have really learnt a lot over the past couple of days. Our riding has come so far. What seemed like a daunting task on day 2 is little more than a blip in the days riding now. Its great to see everyone riding so confidently and efficiently and the group has become very close. We help each other out when necessary during the day, and laugh it all off with a few beers in the evening.

During a forced maintenance stop late in the morning, we were sat in the shade outside a store in a Transkei village. The shopping experience was amazing. A dark hut with no windows and no lights and precious little of anything on the shelves. They did have a small pick and mix selection though (I kid you not). A few of team orange bought a few sweets which were put into any old bag the lady could find – one of the guys came out with his sweets in an old bread loaf bag and an other with his in a dirty well used money bag. It brings it home to see that sort of thing.

While sat in the shade by the shop waiting for the broken bike to be fixed, we watched a big flat bed lorry come screaming round the corner of the road we were about to leave on. The guy was totally out of control (probably drunk apparently) and slid the lorry to a halt within yards of a group of kids playing on the grass on the side of the track. He then bumped his way back onto the road and carried on at hell for leather speed. It was a scary thing to see and made us all much more aware of the dangers of other traffic on the dirt roads.

By early afternoon we had made our way to Port St Johns for lunch. A hustle and bustle hippy town which had a great atmosphere and real market town feel. Following lunch we went back into the technical stuff (which we all now love). This is where I had my embarrassing moment. On day 6 I had dropped my bike riding over some ruts and the handle bar end had pounded my little toe somewhat. Very black and very painful but not enough to keep me off the bike, but it did knock my confidence a bit and due to that I made a stupid mistake at the top of a very steep ascent. I had been riding towards the back of the pack and was one of the last up the hill. When I arrived at the top of the steep sandy gulley the rest of the team were parked up on the steep slope. I  rode up and tried to slot in between a couple of bikes, lost my balance and tipped over down the hill, clattering into the bike below me domino style and ending up pinned between my bike and the one I had hit, its engine running and my backside firmly planted on the exhaust. I couldn’t move and it wasn’t easy for the rest of the team to dismount and come and help. After about 10 seconds I realised my backside was starting to burn quite badly on the hot exhaust. Thankfully, Mark jumped off his bike and pulled me out of the wreckage, leaving a fair bit of my trousers and a small amount of my ass sizzling away on the exhaust of the bike I had fallen on. Ouch. Not too much harm done but sitting on the saddle was a bit tricky for the next hour or so. I won the official dick of the day award for that escapade that night in the bar.

The log cabins we stayed at were beautiful and the food was fabulous and once again we were right on the shore of the Indian ocean. Welcome to paradise. Im going to miss opening the curtains in the morning and not seeing exotic birds, coconut trees and a beautiful ocean.

Only one more day to go…..over to mark for the climax of this incredible journey.

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Mark – Saturday, October 11, 2008

The Finale

“……. pretty soon, the brakes were starting to fade, the ruts were getting deeper and if anyone leaned much further forward, the bike’s rear end would overtake the front end over the top of your head in a heart beat!!”

It was at that point that I realised this “special test” was designed to get the last drop of adrenaline out of your system. The morning started with a stern warning… “ if you do this, you better be fit, you better not have fallen on the previous challenges, and you best be very brave ‘cos this is steeper, harder and deeper than any river valley we have dropped in to and no one has done it before!”.
What is it about a statement like that that immediately makes me want to do it? Pete too was game for the challenge and the group was split in to a high road, low road option (challenging or less challenging!).

We set out from the hotel to a beautiful deep gorge. A peek close to the edge was all it took to make people’s stomach’s gurgle and some more agreed to take the slightly easier high road option. Off to the gas station to re-fuel in some crazy busy township and then it was off to business. We stopped for a quick break, split the groups and away we went. No photos I am afraid but we did get some wicked video that will be on YouTube before too long!

The descent started easy enough, a little challenging, rutted terrain and some mild to steep angles making it difficult. Then we reached a bench that abruptly slanted downwards 1000’ to the river valley below. We could already hear that two teams below were struggling to descend, so we caught our breath and planned a strategy. The one thing we all realised was that it was blisteringly hot.

At one point we pulled over to catch our breath and I noticed a small Tarantula like spider running around on the trail. It was not nice to think where that could crawl into if we spilled on the way down.

Just as I was contemplating the “spider proofness” of my clothing, Dave the guide shouted for us to move on with the challenge, inch by inch we moved the front tires over the precipitous path until you were completely enveloped by some wild Disney type of ride. It was cool until after 50 yards Dave realised we were catching the other teams and summoned us to halt.. easier said than done, and that is were I lay the bike down on it’s side to protect me and it from sliding into the abyss.

As the lower team picked up the pace it freed us to move further down the hill and off we went. The clattering of chains and shouts of anger as long thorns punched through gloves or found unprotected facial areas did nothing to deaden the occasional crash of a bike and rider as we did our best to stay on the pegs or in the saddle, sometimes with no effect!.

Eventually, we emerged into a gorgeous ravine, hot sweaty and hooping and hollering about being one of the first teams to do this new route on Enduro Africa. Then, the ascent took a grip. More thorny bushes, narrow trails and muddy inclines really tested our abilities. There was no doubt that this section had been the toughest yet and we were sure glad we took the option of running it.

The rest of the day was largely running on gravel roads, some tarmac and the occasional forest test thrown in and finally the day drew to a close as we ended up at the gathering place for all the teams to assemble for the final 4 kilometres to our last resort stay.

The pomp and ceremony from this point forward to the close of the day was tremendous. We were treated to a police escort into the resort, zulu dancers, drummers, singers, choirs and food stations representing the best cuisine South Africa has to offer. What a treat. I can’t imagine what it would be like to receive a reception like this wherever you go!

At the end of the day, this trip was about two brothers, who had spent very little time together for the past 20 years, doing something for a change. An idea that was sown over a year ago and landed in fertile soil. This has been the most amazing experience for me, and I can honestly say I know who my brother is now. He is tough, mentally focused, doesn’t quit and is a tremendous team player. Someone I admire greatly. Despite all the setbacks, injuries and challenges, Pete refused to lose and would draw other riders through difficult challenges with his enthusiasm! Way to go!.

I also know that Enduro Africa does a good job. Yes it is a business, and yes the staff and owners draw a salary and make a profit like any company, but their plan, centered on giving you an adventure experience while raising money for very needy projects is sustainable unlike most government sources of funding. Good on them, they work hard, they are making changes to the world and you should not think twice about supporting them and experiencing the same adventure.

I also know that Mike Glover and his staff of dedicated guides from Red Cherry Adventures are also making a difference. A tireless organiser whose goal is to provide a unique experience each year for Enduro Africa participants, Mike is also well known and passionate about his Touch Africa charity that supports the school of the Transkei area.

Along the way, we were pushed, stretched, challenged and cajoled into doing things each of us would not have thought possible. We return tomorrow to an urban airport and board a plane bound for Heathrow. Within a few short days we will return to the frenetic pace of life we call normal, yet touched by what we have seen and experienced. The abject poverty of a region that craves for sustenance yet always smiles and waves form the side of the road. The beauty of a coastline, untouched by human feet in many areas; ruggedly wild, sometimes inhospitable terrain yet the ability to transform a tough day into a magical ending.
For sure Pete and I will remain changed by what we have seen and experienced. Team Orange, you were magic. Thank you for making this such a fun endeavour. Stig and Dave, thanks, without your guidance and encouragement, we would not be the riders we are today, just a little more experience will go a long way. And finally to the guy I borrowed some Vaseline from this morning, thank you, my rear end will be very grateful, that is about all the bike riding I can handle for a couple of days.

To Soze Group. The socks were awesome! Five days hard riding with river crossings and high temperatures and the socks barely smelled and were still comfortable to put on the next day!

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Pete – Tuesday, October 14,  2008

Epiblog

What an incredible journey – physically and emotionally. I have never been so proud to be along side my brother. I’m so glad we shared this experience together. Mark and I took on the challenges that came our way and Mark was a big inspiration to me on the one or two occasions I had second thoughts about some of the stages. As is my brothers way, he very quickly became an important team member, riding this rugged terrain like he had been doing it all his life and being there to assist other team members at every point.

I was very proud to be in Team Orange. You guys are all heroes and I am grateful to have met every one of you.

I learnt so much about enduro riding and am keen to do something like this again.  Our thanks to the Enduro Africa team for providing this experience and to Mike Glover and all the Red Cherry team in SA for giving so many people the experience of a lifetime.

I am humbled and privileged to have met the wonderful children and families in the Transkei region. They are happy and strong people and with a little help from the dedicated charities that assist them, their lives can become immeasurably better. We heard from the head teacher of the school we visited that 150 babies had died locally over a 4 week period from dysentery. That is such a simple thing to treat and prevent. With the help of UNICEF, Sentebale, The Nelson Mandela Childrens’ Fund and Mike Glovers Touch Africa charity, these statistics can be reduced.

While in South Africa, Mark and I were greatly touched by the plight of these people who waved and smiled at us as we rode through the villages and are keen to do more to help. Mike Glovers Touch Africa charity produces ‘Life Straws’. A simple water filter that can provide a child with clean drinking water for 2 years. They cost about £10 each and all the riders bought one for a child. Simple, cheap and something that will mean the difference between life and death for a child.

Being a keen youth football supporter, I was very pleased to see that the many football pitches in the region were looked after and in almost constant use. The kids love to play football. It is my intention in conjunction with one or two other Team Orange members to try and organise a football tour to the villages we have visited and hopefully have some Transkei teams return to the UK for a week to play in some of our summer tournaments. It would be a magnificent cultural exchange and (probably most importantly) educate our children about the lives of these much less fortunate kids and inspire them to do as much as possible to help in the future. Lets hope this seed of an idea also lands in fertile soil.

Thanks for keeping track of our adventure. Thanks to all of you who donated to the charities & huge thanks and love to my bro, Mark. Lets do it again sometime.

Pete Jennings-Bates

Until next time…….